Isan (Northeast)
Som tam
ส้มตำ
Also called: papaya salad, som tum, tam mak hung
Hot
What it is
Shredded green papaya pounded in a clay mortar with chili, garlic, lime, fish sauce, tomatoes and long beans. In Isan it's usually made with pla ra (fermented fish) and salted crab, which is funkier and a lot hotter than the Bangkok version with peanuts and dried shrimp.
How to order it
Ask for som tam Thai if you want the milder, sweeter style with peanuts, or som tam pla ra for the real Isan one.
Not spicy, please: ไม่เผ็ด (mai phet). More in phrases for ordering food.
Where to try it
It's everywhere in Isan (Northeast) (see places in the region). We especially like it in Buriram, Khon Kaen and Udon Thani.